The Allure of Bali: Embracing the Magic of My Favourite Island
Have you ever travelled to a place that feels more like a homecoming than a holiday? A place you keep going back to and every visit feels like a deep, rejuvenating (pranayama) breath? For me, Bali is that place. I’ve been fortunate to visit this Indonesian paradise 20 times in as many years, witnessing firsthand its ever-evolving tourist landscape.
One constant amidst the change is the island’s allure, with glorious weather, friendly locals, and a relaxed vibe guaranteed. In a world perpetually rushing, Bali offers a sanctuary where you can slow down and savor life’s simple pleasures.
The beginning of a Bali love affair
My first trip to Bali was in 2002. At that time, tourism was primarily centered around Nusa Dua and Jimbaran Bay. Ubud was largely untapped, as was Seminyak, with only a handful of attractions such as KuDeTa, BodyWorks, and La Lucciola—all of which are still thriving today.
We returned years later to stay in Seminyak, which by that time had undergone a metamorphosis into a bustling tourist hot spot. Private villa resorts were trending, offering unparalleled luxury, complete with private chefs, drivers on-demand and 24-hour butlers.
This began our regular pilgrimage, and I loved collecting new experiences each time. From the serenity of sunrise yoga and temple ceremonies to orphanage visits, cultural day trips, market strolls and the buzz of beach parties. Every corner of Bali had a story to tell.
Bali's culinary evolution
The next phase of Bali’s evolution saw the rise of prestigious beach clubs, which continue to pop up in abundance around the island. Around Seminyak, KuDeTa are the OG’s, but the W Hotel led a new wave with the likes of Mrs Sippy, Potato Head, Cocoon and Finns. With cocktails on tap and fresh sounds played by renowned DJs, you could easily drink, swim and dance the entire day (and night) away.
Bali has also evolved into a cosmopolitan foodie hotspot, with a restaurant scene that is truly world-class. Many of the crowd favourites were spearheaded by Australian hospitality titans like Will Meyrick from Longrain, Icebergs' Maurizio Terzini, and the MoVida crew. My all-time favourite was Sarong, however establishments like Billy Ho, Metis, Mamasan, Da Maria, Mauri and Bambu continue to buzz. Every year new restaurants emerge, turning our visits into culinary adventures.
What keeps me going back?
There’s an undeniable magic in Bali. It’s not just the lush, seemingly endless rice terraces or the mesmerising sounds of gamelan music playing softly in the background. It’s not even the pervasive scent of incense from offerings burning throughout the day or the 10,000+ Hindu temples (or Puras) that dot the island’s cultural landscape. For me, it's as if Bali is wrapping me in its warm embrace and welcoming me like an old friend.
It's not all magical though. There’s also the constant hum of motorbikes and construction, the broken footpaths, the incessant offers of Viagra from the street sellers and yes, even the smell of sewage which emanates from the water as it spills out onto Seminyak beach. Not to mention that it can take ninety minutes to travel 10km during peak times. No, Bali isn’t for everybody. These aspects might not appeal to some but it's all part of what makes the island so captivating to me.
Bali’s tourist playgrounds
It was not that long ago when Canggu was a tourist ghost town, with only a few places to visit like the Country Club and Deus e Machina, en-route to the famed Echo Beach (far away inside). Now, it’s a full-blown wellness hub, attracting millennials wanting the private villa experience, while enjoying yoga and drinking Balinese kombucha.
Ubud, Uluwatu, Nusa Dua and Jimbaran continue to attract their share of tourists too. Kuta and Legian are rebuilding since the lockdowns and continue to offer budget holidays. However, Seminyak and Canggu are still the popular spots, despite both areas bursting at the seams with people and limited infrastructure.
It seems Sanur may be poised as the future tourist hub, given its proximity and space. However quieter neighbourhoods such as Sideman, Pererenan and Cemagi are also gaining interest. As travellers increasingly seek meaningful experiences, Bali’s ability to offer a harmonious mix of relaxation, adventure, and culture will only enhance its appeal.
The allure of Bali
Despite the changes and growth in different parts of the island, Seminyak remains my favourite place. It offers the best of both worlds, combining the tranquility of the resorts against a backdrop of crashing ocean waves with the vibrant energy of the streets just outside.
Our 11-year-old daughter is a constant companion on our trips, and I love that she can join us wherever we choose to go. We often triple-up on a bike and cruise the early morning streets or watch her leap off Mrs. Sippy’s diving tower as we ‘sippy’ on our lychee martinis and negronis.
Bali has gifted me with countless memories, from unforgettable meals to lifelong friendships formed by the pool. I have travelled to many incredible destinations, but Bali remains my spirit home. Each trip deepens my love for the island and its people, and no matter how many times I return, it will always feel like coming home.