The Power of Coffee
It is no secret that peninsula locals take their coffee seriously and we are spoiled for choice. A long way from its humble working-class beginnings, Balmain is an epicentre for Sydney’s coffee culture. Guest writer Mina Iacono unpicks the power of coffee and how it has shaped our community.
How it all began
Australian coffee has certainly made a name for itself in the last decade or two, creating a coffee culture not seen anywhere else in the world. We largely owe thanks to the Italian immigrants for this, who first brought espresso coffee to the country in the 1930’s.
Fast forward to the nineties when Balmain became a culturally diverse foodie destination to much of Sydney, bringing visitors from all over to dine at the restaurants and old school coffee shops. The coffee scene was still in its infancy and limited to basics like cappuccinos and lattes, offered with (gasp) full cream milk only.
Canteen Cafe in the iconic Institution Arcade opened on the cusp of the coffee culture evolution, emerging as Balmain’s accidental coffee mecca. Co-founder Juan, who still lives locally, says“There wasn’t much around at the time so we partnered, ironically, with The American Coffee Company to introduce the rich, nutty and caramel flavour of robusta that Sydney is now accustomed to.”
The rise of speciality coffee
The proliferation of robusta and arabica speciality coffee was unfolding in the early 2000’s, with cafés stepping up their game by using higher quality and more flavourful beans.
One of the pioneers of the speciality coffee movement was Bertoni, who in 2004 became known as the café that ‘closed down Starbucks in Balmain’. This small family-owned business quickly gained a reputation for their unique house blend and their gingham-check milk crates, inspiring others to join the coffee
Modern day coffee culture
The hipster era took the art of brewing to the next level, igniting the modern day rise of signature coffees such as pour-overs, cold drip, turmeric healers or charcoal, made with small batch, single origin, ethically sourced, sustainable, or direct trade beans (just to name a few).
These complex shots were only out-numbered by the anything-but-milk milk added in. Gone are the days of full cream only and cafés now offer legume-based milk of soy or pea, nut-
based (almond, coconut), seed-based (hemp, sesame), grain-based (oat, rice) and even breast milk (do not get me started).
This paradox of choice needs a scatter plot to help answer what used to be a simple question - What coffee would you like?
The peninsula coffee precinct
Despite the proliferation of foodie culture in Sydney, the peninsula remains a noteworthy coffee precinct. Darling Street alone has over 50 cafes, and new spots pop up alongside established institutions every year, each offering their own unique take on coffee.
Favourites include the Hungry Bull Co. where, for the past eight years, owner Steve has been roasting beans and serving a house blend sourced from four different regions around the world. Steve says that Balmain is the best community ever and that locals love a good coffee. “I’m from Turkey so of course our specialty cup is Turkish coffee. The flavour is much milder with no bitter aftertaste.”
At their roastery in Rozelle, The Little Marionette roast their own beans and delivers them across Sydney and beyond. Owner Ed has had a presence in the Sydney coffee scene for a long time and runs the business on a flavour-first philosophy, sourcing the best beans from around the world and producing small batch, single original and coffee blends.
Charlotte Café in Birchgrove and The Old Rosebud in Rozelle share some things in common – they both have a deep passion for the business they run, and both serve Campos as their coffee of choice. Charlotte’s owner, Jason, opened the Birchgrove store 16 years ago, and has since added another 13 cafes to his portfolio which are scattered all around Sydney. Michelle and Aaron took over the iconic Rosebud site almost three years ago after selling their home in Penrith to follow their dream of running a café. They are fully licenced too, so you can have your coffee by day and come back for a cocktail at night.
What makes our cafés so special?
For starters, most of the cafés are run by owners who are passionate about coffee and want to give each customer a memorable experience. But it’s more than the speciality coffee they serve or the unique experience they offer – it’s the intangible sense of community these peninsula cafés create.
Our cafés bring people together, they’re a place where people come when they need to get away. It’s a communal table hoping to spark up a conversation or a table for one serving as a hot desk. It’s a meeting place where deals are closed and personal training sessions are inducted. It’s a place of toddler distraction so mum can enjoy a quiet latte. It’s a place where your day starts or ends, a place where love blooms and friendships form.
Beyond the bean and hot cup of however you like to drink it, our cafés are a place of connection, of belonging. And this is the true power of coffee culture.